Navigating Retinol Bootcamps

September and January mark an important time in the SKINBOSS calendar. Retinol bootcamp time! With many starting or have started they are likely undergoing a retinoid restoration program. Retinoid use is important for a number of reasons, Skin renewal, collagen production, antioxidant protection, and improved skin tone and texture. It is also used to correct inflammatory and oil diseases such as acne, rosacea & hyper-pigmentation. Retinoids thin the epidermis and thicken the dermis. As we age the Epidermis thickens, it should be compact and smooth, which is why we start to see textual changes. The dermis thins losing our collagen and elastin by 60-70%. It’s no wonder Retinol is the gold standard ingredient used amongst professionals to correct the instructions coming from your DNA and wake up cellular activity. If you aren’t using it already, you are probably thinking how do I get my hands on this miracle ingredient and train my skin like a Pro! Before you rush into using this miracle maker, it’s important to note it does require some hard work on your part. It is normal when acclimatising to Retinoids to experience: dryness, itching, burning, peeling, redness and soreness.

Now, don’t let this scare you off. Anything worth having usually requires a little effort and for good reason. If you want to improve your skin you have to feed it with the right products and give it a workout. NO REACTION = NO RESULT. This isn’t just a skincare routine – it’s a transformation journey. Commit to the process and let your skin shine!

ANTICIPATED REACTIONS 101

Initial reactions are signs of good repair. The reactions are all normal and will balance once the skin responds and becomes healthier. In order to correct the skin, it will look worse before it gets better – but it is essential we correct the lower levels of the skin in order to maintain long term skin control. It’s your investment pot, paying out the longer you use retinol. I’m often asked how long will I use retinol, indefinitely is the answer. If you stop using it the control is taken away and results will rebound over time. I mean why would you ever want to stop!!!

So how do we navigate these reactions to get to the holy grail of amazing skin results. Firstly, here’s what reactions can look like, they range from mild to severe and vary patient to patient.

The reactions will disappear after tolerance is established and skin health has been restored.
It will feel most sensitive when using your exfoliator and toning pads/toner. This should settle once your skin acclimatises to your retinoid products. Sensitive areas such as: eyes, mouth, chest and neck may react more. I’ve found during my career in retinoids that those who have abused sun worshiping or used sun beds generally find reactions more severe and will take longer to repair and reach tolerance as there is far greater damage to the lower levels of the skin.

Reactions can easily be controlled by adjusting the protocol strength, applying a recommended Hydration + Calming product, using a lower strength or less product. You can also decrease frequency of application and then increase to every day as tolerated. However, this usually draws out the process actually making it harder work. Application of less product will result in less anticipated skin reactions but it will slow repair. It’s key to note the more aggressive the program selected the better and quicker the repair. If you have any concerns at any stage, you should contact your practitioner. We do not advise undertaking this process without professional support.

Whilst your first point of call is to use hydration & Calming products to help soothe and calm anticipated reactions. I also recommend ZO Skin Healths Rozatrol. It helps to reduce inflammation, irritation whilst reinforcing the skins barrier making your skin more tolerant with advanced programs. So, if you have a naturally more sensitised skin or undertaking a strong program this little diva warrior can make the whole process a lot more palatable.

All procedures can be carried out whilst going through your retinol restoration but like your other active ingredient products, you will have to stop your retinoid products prior to professional treatments. This is usually advised by the practitioner carrying out the treatment. Hydrafacials for me are your best option whilst carrying out retinoid restoration programs. They help to gently remove dry flaking skin, and provide with essential hydration and antioxidants. The treatment can be customised using the Rozatrol or NEW HA lock booster for additional barrier function support, hydration and calming properties. All in all, it will help you to manage your reactions whilst improving the efficacy of your retinoids and achieve optimal skin health.

If you need to stop the skins’ reaction for a special event, stop using the products at least 4 days prior to the event. This will help you navigate your social calendar, otherwise there will never be a right time and you could be missing out on the best skin of your life.

SKIN PURGING

Skin purging is completely normal and nothing to be concerned about when using retinoids. It’s all part of the process and completely normal.
So why do we purge? It’s an acceleration of the skins cell turnover and is created by active ingredients. These are exfoliators, hydroxy
acids and retinols. A lot of congestion lies deep within the skin, including oil and dead skin cells. It is not visible to the naked eye. Due to the rapid cell turnover rate, it is forced up and out of the skins surface. Once at the skins surface it comes to contact with air and causes irritation.
This inflammation adds to the progression of breakouts. After starting a new improved resurfacing protocol, it makes sense that these invisible micro comedones are pushed up to the surface. It is completely normal and it’s a good thing, you want all the underlying congestion out of your skin for it to function healthily.

WHEN WILL I SEE RESULTS?

The protocol selected for you must be used regularly to achieve maximum results. Consistency is key! It can take a minimum of 6-18 weeks to start to see changes in the skin depending on your program selected. One skin cycle takes 6 weeks and we have to remove a minimum of 3 skin cycles to see the new healthier skin coming to the surface. Realistically however, it’s the pro longed use that has you seeing optimal results and achieving your skin goals. Have in your mind 1-2 years of retinoid use to see big changes. At least once a year you should be switching up your program and using bootcamp to get the best out of your retinoid use. This can vary from using a different type of retinol and delivery system, performing a pulse cycle with stronger strength retinoid or increasing your dosage of your current retinol. Your practitioner is the best person to guide you on what’s right for you.

I hope you found this useful to help you train your skin like a pro and achieve your best GLOW tomorrow.

#bossyourskin
Danielle